Great shoe - wrong description/sizing
These are great shows but be aware, at the time of this review banner description shows these are men’s shoes but actually they are women’s shoes and sizes shown are US women’s. Whatever size you order you will receive that exact size I’m women’s
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More For A Specialist
6/25/2021 updateAfter comparing the pros and cons of the Theory over months of usage, I decided to go back to the Skwama for a more rounded experience. In terms of durability, the Theory was actually more durable than the Skwama. I usually wear out the front tip of the Skwama. Theory held up just fine there. I do want to correct my comment regarding sizing. While the overall volume was comparable to the Skwama. Once I got back to using the Skwama, I realized just how small the Theory toe box area was. In fact, my feet consistent hurt wearing the Theory. It's sized more like the Genius with a narrower profile. The Skwama feels about 0.5 to 1 size (EU size) larger. It just fits my duck feet so much better.I haven't found a lot of reviews on the Theory even months after it's official release. So here's my impression after a few sessions. Context, I mostly boulder (V6 to V8) at the gym and occasionally lead (5.11B to 5.12B) once in a blue moon. I've tried the Genius (not impressed), but have been climbing with the Skwama ever since it came out a few years ago.I wear size 8/8.5 street shoes and 38.5 in Skwama. I bought a size 38.5 Theory and it fits almost the same as the Skwama, maybe a tiny bit smaller than the Skwama. relative to the genius, I'd say the Theory is slightly more comfortable. See attached pictures, I'd say the Theory has a higher arch and narrower profile than the Skwama. But because the rubber is so soft, once your foot is in the shoe, the shoe conforms to the shape of your foot. The total volume of the shoe feel about same as Skwama. I probably could go with a size 39 Theory if I want more comfort. I have duck feet, it's hard to beat the Skwama toe box.Pros:- The rubber is incredibly soft, it feels almost like wearing a pair of socks.- Because of the softer rubber, it's extremely sensitive, you can feel every hold under your feet.- The heel cup is amazing! Best fitting heel cup by far if you have a skinny heel like mine. I felt very secure with heel hooks.- It's a beast on overhang problems because you can truly manipulate your feet like extra hands.Cons:- This shoe is absolute garbage on slab problems with tiny foot chips. Edging is significantly more difficult than you'd think. Due to the softer rubber, you don't have extra support from the shoe to support your foot and push off on tiny foot holds. Imagine wearing socks and try to push off on a nob the size of a quarter vs doing that wearing shoes with a hard sole.Conclusion:It's a fantastic shoe if you need an over hang specialist shoe. For gym usage, I prefer the Skwama because I think it's more rounded in what it can do. Now, if they can make a Skwama Comp with the Theory heel cup, that would be amazing! The Skwama has a great heel but the Theory takes the cake on best heel cup by a wide margin in my opinion. Finally, I will need to test it out, but my guess is this pair of shoes will wear out faster due to the soft rubber.
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J
Jim Thompson
September 04, 2021
Way too small
good construction, but massively smaller than the indicated size.I can wear anyone's 9.5. However, I could only get into these 9.5s (42.5) by smashing my toes into them. It was a painful experience. The problem is that I can't even imagine what size would fit given the extraordinary disconnect on their sizing. Returning to seller.
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