Still really really good for crack climbing!
The fit is very very good to nearly perfect- exceptionally adjustable, and very snug depending on how tight you want and tolerate. I’ve worn the older purple version for many years.These, like the older version, have a fairly low forefront profile & symmetry, are moderately stiff enough to hold jams without too much discomfort, that work well for crack climbing (at least for me up to 5.12 routes mostly on wingate and granite).They’re definitely comfortable enough for multi pitch routes. The laces, at the toe, are historically prone to abrasion wear and eventually coming apart with high use in tight or thin hand cracks! The same goes for the leather eyelets at the forefoot too. Thinner cracks are not so bad since I can’t jam the toe far enough in to reach the laces…doesn’t appear that this will change with this newer version.The sole rubber is just okay, but I prefer the stiffer XSedge rubber or even the older C4. Overall this shoe is very comfortable, well made, and has a low toe profile. I’ve owned and used several other newer style shoes that are softer lace ups, have velcro straps, and with slightly different toe symmetry for crack climbing. Even with taping my toes for some of the thinner harder 5.12+ routes. But, I find myself always coming back to the Sportiva MYTHOS for climbing those same routes. There are only a few really good shoes out there for crack climbing, I think it really depends on your foot shape, comfort level, and of course footwork skill. Hope this helps!
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Geoff Noblitt
May 29, 2024
Great Shoes
These are perfect all purpose climbing shoes. Real quality and craftsmanship. Their lacing system is really neat to get the shoes perfectly adjusted to fit your foot. These are great for all climbing purposes. Bouldering, crack, friction, smears, heal hooks, getting grip on that tiny little knob with your toe. They are fully functional for all climbers and styles and can be used in the gym or on that big wall in Yosemite. Get a pair and you’ll be using this shoe for life.
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Hiker/Climber/Skydiver
February 09, 2014
Best Climbing Shoe I've Found
I finally found the perfect climbing shoe for me after going through three other shoes. I have a wide foot near the the toes so I figured out that the only shoes that work for me are lace-ups. The shoes are so comfortable-everybody else with the hooked-toe shoes has to take them off in between climbs-I never do! Plus, unlike synthetic shoes that STINK, these shoes don't stink at all after 3 months of climbing 1-2X per week.I have two pairs so when I send one pair to get resoled (about $40) I have another pair to wear.I have only climbed indoors-top rope, lead, and bouldering with these shoes but I'm sure they would work outdoors as well.I bought these at my local climbing store for about $145 and they are totally worth it.Highly recommended-Absolutely no complaints about these shoes!
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shawn lohkamp
January 14, 2025
Omg!
These are amazing. My favorite shoes. Comfort is amazing. I don’t write reviews ever. I had to let others know how great these shoes are. The support, the softness, versatility.
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May not be the equivalent of the original mythos
although the Mythos is not known as an edging shoe, I have always been satisfied with their performance on longer trad routes. My original review of these shoes did them no favors as I was unsatisfied with their performance in edging. They seemed too soft and the edges rolled. But it was a warm day on darker rock. I used them again on better conditions and after tightening the lacing at the toe they performed considerably better. I still believe they are probably the most comfortable long route shoe you will buy and they are fine for most moderate routes
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Michael McKinney
June 11, 2023
Great shoes. Lasted for a long time with no maintenance.
These were my first climbing shoe. I wore them until my toes were sticking through the end. I love them. Bring back all tan
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Love these!
I buy these everything I wear out my old ones. They never fail!
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