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JIANCHENG
November 18, 2013
Great Shoe, Super comfortable despite being down turn.
This is a good pair of shoes, very comfortable suede, feels like there is a lot of cushioning when you wear it. Would be a great shoe for long climbs and bouldering if you size it right. Durable Vibram XS Edge rubber so you know it will not wear out as quickly. Good for hard climbs and hard bouldering and also you can still smear in them. Never tried for for crack climbing though, might chew up the shoe. Over all a great shoe, excellent price and superior quality. It works great out of the box! Not much getting used to required. I would buy this shoe again for sure!
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Best Shoe I Have.
To each their own. I have Scarpas and La Sportiva mostly. Never came across a terrible shoe, but what stood out about these shoes as opposed to others is that they felt broken in from day one. Very tight, molded to my foot quickly, and performs admirably. For an aggressive shoe, I have a lot of feeling and precision. I have Testasrossa's, Miuras, Feroces, you name it. I don't think I'll buy another shoe again. Quickly come on and off. Can't spend too much time in them, as I'm popping them off here and there, but they go back on so quickly, it's not much of a concern. The only con I can think of is the suede/lorica upper. It's held up climb after climb, but I smear and drag that all over the wall and I don't know how long it will last. So it's not really a con till they pop, but it seems thin, hopefully it remains durable.
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Amazon Customer
January 26, 2022
Comfortable for a moderate shoe, but the heel slips
I liked the Scarpa Vapor V. I generally agree with the consensus that it's a good shoe for the strong beginner. The performance across the board is a little better than average while being really comfortable for the performance. I got the shoe in a 44 EU with a 46.5 EU for my street size and there was only a slight break in period of 2-3 gym sessions. Note that the shoe is on the wider side in the forefoot.Edging was good, not quite as much as an Instinct VS since the shape of the toe is a little wider, but still better than a beginner shoe like the Helix. It was pretty easy to feel secure standing on small edges on slab or getting a chip in an overhang. Smearing was pretty good with how much surface area the forefoot had.The heel had good rubber and construction outside but the heel cup is oddly wide, which left it feeling somewhat insecure on more aggressive heeling. Especially when trying to heelcam on a smaller hold, the heel slipped every time. I've talked to a few other guys at my gym who had this shoe and it was the same for them, the heel has too much dead space. It didn't really feel like downsizing more would help much since it was a width thing.Durability was average for me but one of my friends burned through it in a month. Granted, he went really often to the gym so take that number with a grain of salt. I went through it in 2 months, which is the same amount of time as my pair of Helix's. The velcro straps never wore on my pair but ripped for a 2 of the guys at my gym. Not sure if I just don't pull as aggressively when tightening, but I never had dead space in the forefoot so your mileage may vary.Overall, if it was on sale for sub-$130, I'd get them again in a 43 EU as a gym shoe, as it does most things well and is pretty comfortable. However, it's not a shoe I'd rely on as my main aggressive shoe as the heel isn't reliable enough and there are better options at the price like the Instinct, Skwama, TN Pro, etc.Pros:- Comfortable- Good performance across the boardCons:- Baggy heel design- Velcro straps may rip if too forceful
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Scott Gilmore
May 15, 2019
Nice fit on a moderately wide foot. Perfect toe feel. Great edge!
When I first tried these shoes on I thought they would be too small. I tried a 42.5 and they hurt the outside of my small toe at first. My big toe fit perfectly, as did my heel. My feet are moderately wide so fit was important.I tried a 43 and I knew right away there was too much room in the toe and heel.I went back down to a 42.5. When the shoes were warm is when I tried them on this time. They fit like a glove.This is my first pair of intermediate climbing shoes, but they are incredible! They take a little time to warm up to your feet. Now that I’ve been climbing in them for a couple of weeks, they have broken in very nicely. No pain in my outer toes from rubbing. My toe sits in them perfectly, and they are very secure on my foot. I can trust my toes on smaller holds with them. They do require a bit more attention when smearing, but that’s to be expected with the more aggressive edge.
✔ Verified Purchase
High quality!
Great quality! A worthwhile investment in my loved one's safety.
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John C. Floyd
October 20, 2015
Gonna go 1/2 size down from previous model.
I had a pair of the previous vapors. I really loved them so when the new ones came out I figured I'd try them out when it was time for new shoes. I bought the same size as my old ones but they were a bit baggy on top of the toe box and the heel cup was not as tight as I would have liked. I am going to try a half size down and hope they aren't too tight. More to come.
✔ Verified Purchase
Great all-rounder
These are my go-to everyday climbing gym shoes. My street shoe size is 9 - 9.5. I wear a 42 for a comfortably snug fit, and could probably squeeze into a 41.5 for a tight fit. I have wide feet, usually wearing a EE width. Scarpa Vapor Vs showed up on a search as one of the best shoes for wide feet, and it is true. They are slightly wider across the shoulders of the feet. These were my first decent pair of climbing shoes after a pair of beginner Mad Rocks. This purchase was for a second pair while my first pair was sent off for resoling. I find that these shoes are very good at edging, and climbing vertical to slightly overhanging. Once the overhang get too steep, I tend to grab my shamans.
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